Guests are a Gift from God

I woke up early yesterday and was fortunate enough to watch Tbilisi come to life just as the sun was rising. Shopkeepers cleaned off their windows or lifted metal doors to reveal their retail items. A teenage girl rushed by me, holding her young sister’s hand, pulling her along as they hurried to a bus stop. Tbilisi was filled with normal everyday people living everyday lives and it was beautiful.

My friend Irakli picked me up from the hotel to see more of his city. Years ago, we attended Command and General Staff College together in the U.S. and have remained in contact since. He now occupies a Director’s position on the General Staff and has clearly had a successful military career, indicated by the driver who shuttled us around for the day.

Irakli embraced me, laughing and grinning while thanking me for visiting his country. I felt truly welcome... and appreciated as a friend.

He took us to the massive Holy Trinity Church that overlooks the city. My initial inclination was to move quickly to cover the long walk up to the church. But Irakli’s steps were short, slow, and deliberate. His pace allowed him to look at his guest, hear my words, and ask questions.

As I looked at my watch, I understood we had plenty of time and realized this slower pace gave me a sense of peace, and a calm that Georgia, and Irakli, wanted to provide. The intention of this tour wasn’t so much about seeing sights as it was about spending time with my friend. This was in so many ways a taste of the Georgian hospitality that was to follow.

We headed to a local restaurant, where Irakli ordered plate after plate of food, relating the details of each dish with pride. It was evident in every word and every smile that he loved taking care of guests and showing off his culture and country. When I stabbed a khinkali dumpling with my fork he let out a loud, “No!” Then he calmly explained the proper way to eat it, dispelling rumors I’ve heard about the consumption of this dish as a display of masculinity. After far too much food and drink, Irakli paid for it all, rebuffing my attempt to pay by simply saying, “Guests are a gift from God.”

As we continued our walk along the winding streets of Old Tbilisi, we talked about our families. Irakli has two teenage daughters and laughed as he described the difficulties of coping with their growing independence. He talked about their future plans for college, and as he did, he made references to the uncertainty of the future overall.

Irakli’s situation became real to me during this walk through his beautiful, ancient city. His family’s future, and his country’s future, rely on his efforts and the presence of his friends. Georgia relies on Irakli to protect the sovereignty of the nation, and on Western allies to support its democracy against increasing Russian aggression.

The vibrant city Irakli showed me, the one I watched come to life in the morning, is under constant assault from Russian propaganda. He also alluded to an underlying fear of invasion. The numbers of Russian troops stationed to the north and south are five times the number of the entire Georgian military. He knows there is no chance to repel the Russians, but suggested that a long, protracted conflict designed to last until Georgia’s friends arrive is the country’s only chance for survival. Irakli and his family, his young girls and their bright futures, would have to endure this nightmare scenario, waiting for help from the West.

As Irakli dropped me off at the hotel, the rush hour traffic was just beginning. The children were walking home from school and buying fruit or popcorn from the sidewalk vendors. Older women were selling flowers to people in lines at the bus stops. The city and its people were ending a busy day. They did so in the shadow of Russian influence and threats. Georgia is a free market, a democracy, a free people going about their time concerned with the day-to-day and concerned about an uncertain future.

I embraced Irakli and said goodbye. He reminded me that I should visit Georgia more often, and added that more Americans should as well. He said, smiling ear-to-ear, “We need our friends, and we are glad to have you.”

-- Garrett E., Cohort 4